Hello

We finally arrived in the city we will be staying at for the next few days. It feels so great to be off of planes!

We got to the guesthouse yesterday around 2 pm, and after eating fell asleep... I woke up to the most excruciating pain shearing through my calf muscles. I had no idea what a charlie horse felt like. I was screaming, half because of the pain, half because I didn't know where I was. Ashlie was asleep on the couch next to me, she heard me yelling, lifted her head and squinted her eyes, then collapsed to back to sleep. Then I realized where I was and stopped yelling. Well, now I know to get up a little more often on those long flights.

Today we're going to go shopping so that Ashlie can get a chadar namaas. They are the long black garments women wear in this city. Although the women are still very modest, when we arrived yesterday, it seemed to me to be much different than last year. The women were wearing fewer layers. It was encouraging, to know things are changing, although its only been ten months. Hopefully more to come soon.